Just to summarise some of the above points.
1) Yes, large diameter rollers are required if the film has become at all brittle, the small tight curves can destroy old film.
2) PTR rollers work, but only with film that is already clean. They will pickup the small dust and hairs from the environment as the film runs, but are useless for film that has not already been cleaned.
3) If you want a clean transfer, the scanner needs to be mounted inside an enclosed case, and use positive pressure to keep the dust out.
4) Cleaning. The best product for cleaning is Trike, but it is expensive and not manufactured any more. The best available subsititute that is relatively safe and affordable is Gentech film cleaning solvent. http://www.relspec.com/applications/film-cleaning-solvent.html This has been used for a long time and has no adverse affects on film.
4) Lubricating/scratch removal. Filmguard isn't fantastic at cleaning, but if you clean the film first, and then apply filmguard, then scan with the filmguard still on the print, you get very, very close to wet-gate results. Nearly all base scratches disappear completely. This can be applied by hand easily, or use a Kelmar/Film-O-Clean style applicator. This can cause problems with roller driven scanners though as the rollers end up coated in filmguard.
5) Air blowing. This tends to cause static buildup, and is ineffectual generally, but tightly focused 'air-blade' style systems can work. However, you are better off, if dust and stray hairs are the main problem (i.e. the film is already 'clean) using PTR rollers in this case.