# Pi HQ Camera vs DSLR image fidelity

**URL:** <https://forums.kinograph.cc/t/pi-hq-camera-vs-dslr-image-fidelity/2810>\
**Category:** Research\
**Created:** [August 29, 2024, 9:18am UTC](https://forums.kinograph.cc/t/pi-hq-camera-vs-dslr-image-fidelity/2810 "2024-08-29T09:18:16Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Showing post:** 71

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**Author:** ![npiegdon](https://forums.kinograph.cc/user_avatar/forums.kinograph.cc/npiegdon/32/2729_2.png) [@npiegdon](https://forums.kinograph.cc/u/npiegdon)\
**Post date:** [October 13, 2024, 7:12pm UTC](https://forums.kinograph.cc/t/pi-hq-camera-vs-dslr-image-fidelity/2810/71 "2024-10-13T19:12:33Z")

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> [@verlakasalt](#):
>
> If we had a camera with a defined color space, things would be easier to grasp…

It’s possible to get at least this far by calibrating with a known display chart.

I’ve written a little about that process (look at the giant triangle! 🤣 ) in [this post](https://forums.kinograph.cc/t/the-reelslow8-film-scanner/2491/39#color-profile-3). And then I eventually dug a little deeper [over here](https://forums.kinograph.cc/t/the-backlight/966/170). That second post includes all the links and command lines to turn one of those charts into an ICC (or Cube LUT) profile.

This gives you a nice, precise answer but the results are only valid when using the camera in the same lighting situation. Change the backlight and you’d need to recalibrate.

There’s also the question of [metamerism](https://comeonux.com/2021-09-29-it8-considered-harmful/). These calibration charts themselves are printed on a film stock with particular characteristics (and that only have so much possible color range). The closer that film stock is to what you’re actually scanning, the more useful the calibration. I got lucky: Wolf’s targets are printed on Ektachrome and half my footage is Ektachrome.

All of that said, there is a weakness here: at the end of all this effort you will be able to very accurately represent the now-faded colors in this old film. 😅 Any arbitrary changes you make to “restore” the color afterward make this whole process kind of academic since you’re not really using the calibration anymore. So, at best, I just treat it as a good starting point (mostly because I’m not using “normal” illumination).

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