Ive been trying to find a reasonably priced CRI 95 LED thats 12v and up to 10-15W is fine but many are way overpowered (like 100W or above) and way overpriced!
I did find a bunch of them here, but the postage costs is almost €60!! (I’m from the UK).
I’m happy to order from Aliexpress but theres so many types!
Help appreciated.
Edit: Required for Super8 telecine.
Hi @bassquake,
I am using this type of lamp, I think with good results.
The captures of this thread are made with a similar lamp. I use it as it is, without adding any additional diffuser.
As you can see, it is very cheap, only €1.35. They are also for sale at local DIY stores.
In my opinion 10 W is excessive power. On one occasion I got to try a 7 W lamp. I had to throw it away. The light produced was so intense that it simply saturated the sensor of the HQ camera.
The proposed lamp is 2 W, 170 lm and correct exposures are obtained with times of the order of 4 or 5 ms.
Good luck with your research
@Manuel, I think the statement above is under specific conditions:
For some other scanner cases, such indirect lighting (large sphere), global shutter/continuous motion scanning, a 10W light may be necessary.
I have to admit that you are absolutely right.
My opinion is based on my own experience.
Actually my device is built with an old modified projector and the capture is done with the film stopped and using the Raspberry Pi HQ camera with rolling shutter.
I certainly don’t know how the @bassquake’s scanner works
I’m looking to do something like this project.
I want to add an led that’s dimmable but be indirect lighting using a large sphere although haven’t decided yet. Images would be taken one at a time using an HQ Camera.
If I cant find a CRI95 led, can I achieve the same with a RGBW led?
This decision will drive how much light power the LED will need.
The project that you show is 8mm film (Regular and Super 8). Typically the sphere required is not large if it is for 8mm only.
High CRI is somewhat the opposite of discrete RGB LEDs. It may be best to look at the White LED datasheet spectrum profile.
These are the White LEDs I am using (5000K), with a custom designed PCB. The LED subject and quality is a recurring theme in the forum. If the interest (and patience) is there, this may be an opportunity to collaborative design the best form factor for a PCB.
The PCB at the bottom is what I have been using with the LEDs above, first in a small oversided ping-pong ball, and now three in a 90mm metal sphere.
The SMD LED retail cost is about US 35 cents, and PCBs are not that much.
Note that these LEDs have a particularly large Vf of 9V, so typically it will require a 12V power supply (or more if connected in series). In the large sphere above I use a 32V power supply.
PS. As you can see from Manuel results, you can have good results without the complication of building the LED/PCB, so please take the above as an illustration, not a recommendation.
Ok. To simplify the build, maybe I should go for one of these from AliExpress?
Assuming the sellers are telling truth about its ratings! 
Maybe 3W or 5W at 6000K?
PS: @PM490 Very cool setup! It’s similar to what I was going to do, but I think for now, I’ll just use a single led with a diffuser material.
I have never used one of these LEDs.
I suppose that with a proper construction, that is, a printed circuit that acts as a support, a good diffuser and, above all, a correct, well-stabilized power supply can give good results.
In my opinion it is advisable to use a color temperature similar to that of the halogen lamps that were used in projectors, around 3000 - 3300 K
The lamp that I use in my device can be powered between 10 and 18 V, that is, it already has the voltage stabilizer built in. In my case it is powered at 12 V by the same power supply as the stepper motor. The light intensity remains substantially constant at all times.
In my opinion it is a good choice for three reasons:
Regards
I thought it was recommended to use 5600K for lights so assumed 6000K was ok. I will use your recommendation for 3000K, thanks.
I’m going to mount it onto a heatsink and power it from a 12v 1A power adapter.
Seeing as they’re quite cheap I might get a few different wattage and temperature types to play around with!
