Well this is such a nice setup. I really appreciate all the work you have put on this project and that you are willing to help us build it.
@Roland the piece for the lens is designed around your proprietary optics right? It can be adapted to other just by modifying the stl right?
Can the computer program scan negative film and invert it right on the preview?
Can you share newest scans or specifically negative film scans? I plan to use it for newly developed negative film.
@Andriy_But I read about your processing machine. Are you able to teach or guide on how to assemble one? I might be very interested also on building one. Definitely my skills are not onto programming and those things but I have help and also have a friend that is very capable.
For the processing machine itās way harder and requires not only engineering capabilities but also chemical knowledge (which fortunately I have). Iāve started building from scratch and failed, now Iām redesigning old machine initially built for bw film to support temperature control and facing so many challenges that Iām not in position to give advice
and you wonāt be able to source similar machine, they were produced in low quantity 40 years ago and itās impossible to find anywhere. The good news ā everything needed to built such a machine is available on Kodak website (H-24 Modules & Kit Chemicals Processing Manuals | Kodak) where engineers from Kodak described the logic and technical capacity. If youāre confident in your skills itās all there already.
I do not know that camera. I use a Basler A2 USB cameraā¦ My software controls both the scanner and the camera, so the PC/scanner wiring diagrams must match exactly the diagram I already shared earlier in this thread. That is not impossible to achieve, although I am not an electronics engineer.
But at first you can do something simpler, namely:
Like @Andri_But, separate the scanner control from the camera control. Use a Basler module that manages the LED flashes based on the laser sensor signal. In principle, the laser sensor sends a signal each time it detects a perforation; that signal is transmitted to the Basler module, which triggers the camera image according to Baslerās own settings (delay, flash duration). The scanner motor control is completely separate from this triggering system.
With these two options (Andriy_Butās and mine), the camera you buy must come with software, normally free, that fully manages image recording. It is essential that you be able to adjust all the image parameters (exposure, white balance, gamma, and so on).
I invite you to browse through this thread; you will find the Arduino control system, the diagrams, and the Arduino program there.
Yes. Or you need to be able to adapt the SDK of the camera you buy.
I have no vested interest in defending this brand; I could have chosen another one, but this was the one most easily available in my region. Iām sure another brand would work just as well. Besides, Andriy_But found an SDK for the camera you were interested in.
You donāt have to have a single program that manages both the scanner and the camera at the same time. You can use the cameraās own program for the āImagesā side, and the scannerās motorization/flash. Itās a simplified solution that I used for a long time, and it works very well.
@roland Yes I see but I am very interested on the program that you developed too and that it has built in stabilization. This migh be something that Claude could help solve easily but Iām not completely sure.
Here you go ā I think you should be able to move forward now.
Youāll find the PCBs, the .stl files to print the front and rear enclosures, the complete wiring diagrams so you can properly check that I havenāt made any mistakes before powering up your scanner, and the Arduino sketch (actually for a Teensy 4.1).
No joke, I think it should work, but I originally made this for myself, so itās possible that some minor modifications were not documented. So please be careful, and I take no responsibility in the event of fire, electrocution, poisoning, suffocation, and so on. I only accept criticism.
Iāve been working too much lately; a brand-new version of this program will be put online soon. Youāll hear more about it in the coming days.
I misunderstood you; I thought you were referring to CleanScan, not the scanner app. The latter has not changed. Perhaps you should move ahead with your build, and we can revisit it later. What do you think?
Iām seriously considering building the scanner. Iām preparing the construction. Iām looking at the material requirements and the cost of materials. I also want to see the driver program for the scanner and the camera. Iāve seen it working on YouTube, but Iād like to see the program in exe file or even command line text if it is possible. I know works with basler cameras but may I will take one.
I have started ordering the materials, but some information is missing. Like the type of push button switch, the diameter so it fits in the box. Also, the type of 24v power supply for the whole system, how many watts. The type of optocoupler for the laser beam. 3-5v? Also, the length of the MGN5 and what type is C or H. The length of the cylindrical shafts for the film gate system. Could also we have the stl file for cleaning system? Also, do you think the idea for the following XYZ system would be suitable so that we can simplify the camera adjustment and support system? Dovetail Groove Linear Fine Tuning Sliding Table Manual Displacement Stage X/XY/Z/XZ/XYZ Axis Trimming Platform LWX4040 LWD2542 - AliExpress 13
For the switch dimensions, and any other measurements you are still missing, you can take them directly in your slicer software (at least in PrusaSlicer, though I assume it is not the only one that allows this).
The same applies to the MGM5, which you should not need to trim or resize (150 mm).
As for the power supply, I use an external 24 V, 6 A unit.
The optocouplers are 3 V because the Teensy does not operate at 5 V, but at 3 V on these inputs and outputs. That said, there is some tolerance, and 5 V optocouplers do work at 3 V, at least the ones I bought.
For the camera mount, you should be able to adjust it along every axis except laterally.
For the vertical axis, I realized that a system like the one you showed does not provide enough precision for focusing. That is why I added a separate fine adjustment for the vertical axis, with millimetric precision.
Likewise, to scan all formats, you need a large vertical travel range for film format 4.75 mm up to 35 mm.
Sorry, I donāt have much time right now. Iāll get back to you tomorrow.
