My all format scanner

[fabriccio]

Well this is such a nice setup. I really appreciate all the work you have put on this project and that you are willing to help us build it.

@Roland the piece for the lens is designed around your proprietary optics right? It can be adapted to other just by modifying the stl right?

Can the computer program scan negative film and invert it right on the preview?

Can you share newest scans or specifically negative film scans? I plan to use it for newly developed negative film.

@Andriy_But I read about your processing machine. Are you able to teach or guide on how to assemble one? I might be very interested also on building one. Definitely my skills are not onto programming and those things but I have help and also have a friend that is very capable.

[Andriy_But]

For the processing machine it’s way harder and requires not only engineering capabilities but also chemical knowledge (which fortunately I have). I’ve started building from scratch and failed, now I’m redesigning old machine initially built for bw film to support temperature control and facing so many challenges that I’m not in position to give advice

and you won’t be able to source similar machine, they were produced in low quantity 40 years ago and it’s impossible to find anywhere. The good news — everything needed to built such a machine is available on Kodak website (H-24 Modules & Kit Chemicals Processing Manuals | Kodak) where engineers from Kodak described the logic and technical capacity. If you’re confident in your skills it’s all there already.

[fabriccio]

@Roland Technical question: Is the software capable of using any cameras? I want to use this one with this scanner

[Andriy_But]

IDS has its own SDK and software package - IDS Peak. You’ll need to develop your own based on their set of logic.

[Roland]

I do not know that camera. I use a Basler A2 USB camera… My software controls both the scanner and the camera, so the PC/scanner wiring diagrams must match exactly the diagram I already shared earlier in this thread. That is not impossible to achieve, although I am not an electronics engineer.

But at first you can do something simpler, namely:

Like @Andri_But, separate the scanner control from the camera control. Use a Basler module that manages the LED flashes based on the laser sensor signal. In principle, the laser sensor sends a signal each time it detects a perforation; that signal is transmitted to the Basler module, which triggers the camera image according to Basler’s own settings (delay, flash duration). The scanner motor control is completely separate from this triggering system.

With these two options (Andriy_But’s and mine), the camera you buy must come with software, normally free, that fully manages image recording. It is essential that you be able to adjust all the image parameters (exposure, white balance, gamma, and so on).

I invite you to browse through this thread; you will find the Arduino control system, the diagrams, and the Arduino program there.

[fabriccio]

So for plug and play it would have to be a Basler Camera?

[Roland]

@fabriccio

So for plug and play it would have to be a Basler Camera?

Yes. Or you need to be able to adapt the SDK of the camera you buy.

I have no vested interest in defending this brand; I could have chosen another one, but this was the one most easily available in my region. I’m sure another brand would work just as well. Besides, Andriy_But found an SDK for the camera you were interested in.

You don’t have to have a single program that manages both the scanner and the camera at the same time. You can use the camera’s own program for the “Images” side, and the scanner’s motorization/flash. It’s a simplified solution that I used for a long time, and it works very well.

[eldi]

Nice work! Could you share the files for the control board?

[Roland]

My all format scanner

Here we’re really getting into the technical side, and my English might make me misunderstand or express myself poorly. I think that if I want to be at least a bit clear, I need to show you how my scanner is designed: Here is the wiring of the box at the back, which provides power and acts as a “hub” for the motors, lighting, ventilation, and the laser: Schematic_Schéma de branchement pour boitier arrière_2023-07-30.pdf (55.3 KB) Then there is the control box, which manages and coordinates a…

[eldi]

Thank you for your answer. But especially need the file(s) for pcb(printed circuit board) if you can.

[fabriccio]

@roland Yes I see but I am very interested on the program that you developed too and that it has built in stabilization. This migh be something that Claude could help solve easily but I’m not completely sure.

[Roland]

@eldi

But especially need the file(s) for pcb(printed circuit board) if you can

Here you go — I think you should be able to move forward now.

You’ll find the PCBs, the .stl files to print the front and rear enclosures, the complete wiring diagrams so you can properly check that I haven’t made any mistakes before powering up your scanner, and the Arduino sketch (actually for a Teensy 4.1).

No joke, I think it should work, but I originally made this for myself, so it’s possible that some minor modifications were not documented. So please be careful, and I take no responsibility in the event of fire, electrocution, poisoning, suffocation, and so on. I only accept criticism.

Boitiers stl, PCB, shémas, scketch.zip

@fabriccio

Yes I see but I am very interested on the program that you developed too and that it has built in stabilization

I’ve been working too much lately; a brand-new version of this program will be put online soon. You’ll hear more about it in the coming days.

[eldi]

Thank you for the files. We are waiting also for the new version of the program

[Roland]

@eldi

We are waiting also for the new version of the program

I misunderstood you; I thought you were referring to CleanScan, not the scanner app. The latter has not changed. Perhaps you should move ahead with your build, and we can revisit it later. What do you think?

[eldi]

I’m seriously considering building the scanner. I’m preparing the construction. I’m looking at the material requirements and the cost of materials. I also want to see the driver program for the scanner and the camera. I’ve seen it working on YouTube, but I’d like to see the program in exe file or even command line text if it is possible. I know works with basler cameras but may I will take one.

[fabriccio]

The software can add driver for other brand cameras? @Roland

[eldi]

I have started ordering the materials, but some information is missing. Like the type of push button switch, the diameter so it fits in the box. Also, the type of 24v power supply for the whole system, how many watts. The type of optocoupler for the laser beam. 3-5v? Also, the length of the MGN5 and what type is C or H. The length of the cylindrical shafts for the film gate system. Could also we have the stl file for cleaning system? Also, do you think the idea for the following XYZ system would be suitable so that we can simplify the camera adjustment and support system? Dovetail Groove Linear Fine Tuning Sliding Table Manual Displacement Stage X/XY/Z/XZ/XYZ Axis Trimming Platform LWX4040 LWD2542 - AliExpress 13

Of course, there will be some questions during the construction process. Sorry for the workload I’m putting on you.

[Roland]

Sorry, I’m very busy at the moment.

For the switch dimensions, and any other measurements you are still missing, you can take them directly in your slicer software (at least in PrusaSlicer, though I assume it is not the only one that allows this).

The same applies to the MGM5, which you should not need to trim or resize (150 mm).

As for the power supply, I use an external 24 V, 6 A unit.

The optocouplers are 3 V because the Teensy does not operate at 5 V, but at 3 V on these inputs and outputs. That said, there is some tolerance, and 5 V optocouplers do work at 3 V, at least the ones I bought.

For the camera mount, you should be able to adjust it along every axis except laterally.

For the vertical axis, I realized that a system like the one you showed does not provide enough precision for focusing. That is why I added a separate fine adjustment for the vertical axis, with millimetric precision.

Likewise, to scan all formats, you need a large vertical travel range for film format 4.75 mm up to 35 mm.

Sorry, I don’t have much time right now. I’ll get back to you tomorrow.

[Roland]

See the photos already provided above.

Part no. 1: 1 x 90 x 40 mm, for the forward/backward movement of the camera.
Part no. 2: 1 x 90 x 40 mm, for the vertical movement of the camera (fast but not very precise movement).

Part no. 3: 1 x 40 x 40 mm, for the vertical movement of the camera (limited travel, but precise for focusing).

To connect parts 2 and 3, there is a 3D-printed bracket. It is not a complicated part. The problem is that I can no longer find either the drawing or the .stl file. Please let me know if it would be impossible for you to design it yourselves.

Then, underneath this “support arm,” there is the lens mounting assembly. Why make it so complicated?
Because even the slightest movement or vibration, however small, causes either image movement during capture or, in the worst case, a loss of sharpness.

This part of the mechanism has two advantages. The first, as I mentioned, is to prevent vibrations. The second is to stiffen the aluminum profiles, which are still 60 cm long.

I realized, while adjusting the focus without these parts, that simply resting my wrist on the upper profile in order to adjust the focus caused the profile to bend by a few tenths of a millimeter, which altered my setting.

Once the clamping screw is loosened, this system allows the camera to be moved freely forward and backward, and up and down, while also allowing the zoom to be adjusted freely. Once the desired camera position has been chosen, all that remains is to tighten the small knob located on the right side of the lens.

I know these parts have a certain cost; it is up to you to decide whether you can do without them.

The upper and lower parts are bonded together using cyanoacrylate glue.
A spring must also be inserted between the two “jaws.” These must gently brush against the film, not clamp it.

This part must be used exclusively with lens-cleaning cloths, folded several times and moistened beforehand with isopropyl alcohol.

Essuie film antipoussière.stl (317.0 KB)

L’optocoupleur qui fonctionne de 3 à 5 v.

[eldi]

Thank you for helpfull information